J Crew's Mickey Drexler: The Man Most Likely To Do the Right Thing
Tuesday, February 3, 2009 at 9:00AM J Crew is breaking ranks with the majority of American fashion brands, putting 65-year-old Lauren Hutton (wrinkles and all) on its catalogue cover, without fearing that sales will tank with younger customers. 
While the catalogue is hardly ageless, it's a big step forward in American branding. J Crew's move is still considered the "kiss of death" in most corner offices.
Perhaps our recessionary times will inspire brand builders to relax the "perfection standards" in favor or a more realistic and comprehensive view of stylish people. Stay tuned.
MILF and GILF Lust
Older babes are on the move.
Just last night I talked with one of my young fashionista friends, who confirmed that single, younger men are indeed carrying a blazing torch for older women. I speak not of the 25-year-old who yearns for a 33-year-old Yummy Mummy.
I'm talking about the 40-year-old, divorced Morgan Stanley i-banker who only lusts for the confident, bold Samantha. In fact, "confidence is Queen".
Michelle Style
Applauding J Crew's Mickey Drexler for once again demonstrating brilliant vision in creating iconic American brands (Drexler is the original Gap guy), it's fair to ask about J Crew's use of African American models . . . and the way the brand will advance (or not) Michelle Obama style in its marketing imagery.
The First Lady influence (always part of Drexler's J Cres DNA and predating Michelle Obama) is subtle. 
Specifically, J Crew is selling a Michelle cardigan and the Jackie twinset. Neither appears on an African American model, and I'm not suggesting that it should.
Of all the "hot brands" out there, in the dreary days when one in three American women says she will not buy one new apparel item in 2009, J Crew is best poised for a softer landing with frugal American consumers.
While not inventing the J Crew brand, America's First Lady is "making" J Crew an American brand across a wider audience. Classic is suddenly almost uniquely activist and independent-minded, like Anthropologie.
Rest assured that Drexler lies in bed at night, considering his strategy in maximizing this opportunity for stockholders and for posterity.
Drexler knows that he is obliged to deliver evolutionary American imagery back to American consumers in the pages of J Crew.
Michelle sweaterMerchants have long argued that there's a fiscal downside to using African American models in its pages.
Personally, I "went to the wall" at Victoria's Secret, arguing in the Nineties that Naomi Campbell belonged in our windows. My passion wasn't purely altruistic or activist. At the time, 25% of our sales came from African American women.
In the early days of my career, I was part of a very aggressive conversation about the financial consequences of using African American models in the pages of the Montgomery Ward catalogue. I lost that battle.
This past summer, Italian Vogue reminded the fashion industry that progress has been very limited for African American models. Creating an "All Black" issue, Italian Vogue put the subject of beauty images and the bottom line -- or "who do we all really aspire to be when nobody's looking" on the front burner.
The fashion industry says "white". 
via JezebelThe new twist in our conversation lies with white women.
To what extent will we white women subconsciously hold brands responsible for using African American women models?
Speaking more broadly, when does that mythical "rainbow coalition" of American beauty become the "new normal', replacing lily white because it's not only who we are as a nation . . . but color is the very essence of style.
On this single topic, Drexler is far more influential than the towering Anna Wintour, who could "flip the switch" in a moment.
The latter do-the-right-thing move seems doubtful . . . but then stranger things have happened in America. A
J Crew in Fashion Industry, Michelle Style, O-Effect
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